Day 8: Remembrance and Israel’s issues in the 21st Century

Our last full day in Israel began with a tour of Yad VaShem, Israel’s Holocaust Memorial. This is the preeminent museum in the world dedicated to remembering the events of the Shoah, the destruction of the Jewish communities in Europe by the Nazis during World War II. If you ever went to Yad Vashem in the past, you might not think it was that impressive. But approximately 5 years ago, the main exhibit was totally renovated. The museum takes you on a journey, telling the story of the Jewish people from the life of the Jewish communities in Europe through the rise of the Reich, the establishment of the ghettos and concentration camps, and the eventual destruction and murder of 6 million Jews. As you walk through the exhibit, you make your way into the hall of names, where 3.5 million names of Shoah victims have already been recorded. You then find yourself looking towards the future, as you stand on an overlook with west Jerusalem laid out in front of you. From the main exhibit we headed to the Children’s Memorial, a haunting testimonial to the 1.5 million children whose lives were cut tragically short. We took some time to gather our thoughts and reflect with a brief ceremony right after.
From Yad Vashem we traveled to Gilo, a Jewish neighborhood over the Green Line border in South Jerusalem. Standing on a former tank plateau facing both Bethlehem and Beit Jalla in the West Bank, we discussed the security barrier, the wall and the fence, laid out before us. We explored the question of the value of erecting a barrier that sometimes separates farmers from their fields or bisects a town in two, yet has also provided Israel with a sense of security for the last three years, with almost no terror attacks coming from the West Bank since its creation. As we looked out on the bombed former headquarters of Hamas, we turned to the North, and were able to see Har Homa, a tremendous city which continues to grow, including the 1600 new homes announced during Vice President Biden’s visit to Israel last month. We came away with more questions than answers, because it seems that Israel and the Palestinians are trapped in a Catch-22.
We concluded the day by heading to Beit Shmuel, the home of the Reform movement in Israel, except here it is known as Progressive Judaism. We spoke with a member of the staff of IRAC, the Israel Religious Action Center. We learned about the challenges IRAC has made in the courts and before the Knesset, fighting for both freedom OF religion and freedom FROM religion at the same time. This fascinating look into this aspect of liberal Judaism in Israel helped us understand a struggle that is very close to our hearts.
Since this is our last night in Jerusalem, many of us went out into the city to search for those last minute gifts and get some rest, because tomorrow is an early departure for Masada.
Because we will be traveling tomorrow, this is my last blog from Israel. As we make our way home, we are all anxious to share stories of our experiences, of the connections we made with Israelis all around the country, and the bonding we have forged with the fellow members of our trip. I hope to summarize the trip with some comments from members, and share some photos, when we return to the States.
Shalom u’lehitra’ot.

Day 7: Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem

Members of our group enjoyed Shabbat today in their own way. Some of us went to services. Others went to visit with family and friends. Some explored the Old City or neighborhoods in West Jerusalem. Several people ventured into the shuk, the Arab market open on Saturdays, while a few of us went back to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher for some time exploring this Christian holy site. I even heard rumors that some people just relaxed around the hotel. Whatever we did, the point was to enjoy Shabbat in a way that was meaningful.
This evening we gathered together in Yemim Moshe, a beautiful neighborhood with gorgeous panoramic views of the Old City. Each of us shared a special memory of an experience from this week, as we prepared to end Shabbat with Havdalah, and begin to get ready for our return home. It was a beautiful way to come together as a community even more.
I asked people on the trip to share some of their thoughts about the trip. I’d like to share a few of them tonight:
Thursday: I’m in Israel! Words fail me. Beautiful land. The young people, so proud of their homeland. They’re lovely, so sweet, so tireless, so friendly, and eager to know us. Tonight we’re in Jerusalem. I cannot describe the emotions. Tears fall so easily and then we smile at one another. God Bless Israel. God bless her people. God bless us all. Thank you for giving us this opportunity to experience the emotions and the beauty of this awesome land. ---- Sandy Schwersky

Day Six: Touring Jerusalem

Another early morning brought us into the walls of the Old City. Standing on the rooftops in the Jewish Quarter, we could see the four quarters of the Old City for the Jews, Christians, Muslims and Armenians. We began to gain a better understanding of what faith means, and what it means to be a part of Judaism, more than a religion, more than simply a religion. We toured the Jewish Quarter, strolling down the ancient Roman Cardo, the street that ran through old Jerusalem. Eventually, we made our way down to the Davison Archaeological Park, a relatively new center that helps explain the Temple Mount from a historical perspective. We went to the Southern wall, to the steps which pilgrims used to climb as they made their way to the Temple to offer their sacrifices to God. As we climbed the steps as well, we read Psalm 122, an ancient Song of the Pilgrims, which reflects what our ancestors might have felt as they climbed those same steps. When we reached the top, we gathered close together for a blessing of our congregation. We then proceeded to make our way around the corner to the Kotel, the Western or Wailing Wall. Everyone took some time for personal prayers and reflections. We placed the notes of prayers of members of our Temple family into the cracks of the Wall. Some of us proceeded into a tunnel that runs along the entire Western Wall. The Kotel we see in the plaza is only 60 meters of exposed wall. It continues for another 500 meters to the North and this is what we walked along in the tunnel. Some of us were able to take some time to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the sites according to Christian tradition of Jesus’ crucifixion and resurrection, making this one of the holiest sites for the Christians
After taking a quick break for some shopping and lunch, many of us made our way from the Old City to Machane Yehuda, an outdoor market in Nachlaot, one of the oldest Jewish neighborhoods outside of the Old City. In the craziness just a few hours before Shabbat, hundreds of people pushed their way through the market to buy fresh vegetables, pitas out of the oven, spices, nuts, halvah and more. It is a true balagan, or crazy experience, and it stands juxtaposed to the quiet of Shabbat that descends just an hour or two later.
For Shabbat services, we boarded a bus and headed to Mevasseret Tziyon, a suburb of Jerusalem. We went to Kehilat Mevasseret Tziyon, a Reform synagogue led by Rabbi Maya Leibovich. Some of you may remember that Maya spoke to our congregation almost exactly one year ago. Maya welcomed us, and told us a little bit about the synagogue. Soon congregants came in, and we enjoyed a peaceful service of singing and prayer, though some of the melodies were unfamiliar, and of course it was all in Hebrew. After services we returned to our hotel for a relaxed Shabbat dinner together as a kahal, a community.
Shabbat tomorrow brings us the opportunity to rest, to explore Jerusalem and think about our own beliefs and practices on our own. So, from Jerusalem, we all wish you Shabbat Shalom.

Day 5: A Broad Spectrum of Israel

Each day, I want to begin by saying this is the best day of the trip, because it is! It does not negate any of the wonderful things that have happened. It just means that today was incredible. We began our day in a slightly unorthodox way. We visited Naot Mordechai, the neighboring kibbutz to our hotel. Naot Mordechai is known throughout the world as the manufacturers of Naot sandals and shoes (the ones in the store in the Countryside Mall, near BrightHouse.) Yes, we started the day shopping for shoes, which made many of the women happy. After a short shopping trip we headed to the Lavi forest, a new forest being planted by the Jewish National Fund. Connecting with the tradition Jews have had for over a century through their support of the JNF, we got down on our hands and knees and planted trees. In Israel, it seems that we feel a special connection to nature. Whether it is the beautiful flowers, the gorgeous scenery, or the need to understand how water is used, I always feel more connected to the natural world while here. Today was Earth Day, so we were fortunate to make this special and personal connection to the land of Israel.
From Lavi Forest we headed down to Nazareth, an Arab city in the middle of the country. Nazareth is, of course, the home town of Mary, mother of Jesus. In the middle of town, we went to visit the Church of the Annunciation, an incredibly gorgeous church built on the site where, according to tradition, Mary was told of Jesus’ impending birth. Interestingly, at Jewish holy sites, we are usually concerned about women dressing in a modest manner, ensuring their knees and shoulders are covered. At the church, it is the MEN whose knees must be covered, so before we could even go in, several of our men were given skirts to hide their knees. The church is filled with beautiful symbolic representations of the annunciation, the largest mosaic in all of Israel, and a roof in the shape of a lily set over our heads at dizzying heights. After visiting the church, we walked through Nazareth to find lunch. Many of us had falafel or shwarma again. Is there such a thing as too much falafel? We also took some time to try, knaffe, an Arabic desert treat, similar to baklava, or bakLAHwa in Arabic, except that it is filled with warm cheese and covered in a sugar syrup. Delicious!
From Nazareth we continued South to Hadera. Hadera is the Partnership 2000 (P2K) City of Pinellas County. Every summer, teens from Hadera travel to our community to work with our local Jewish summer camps, including our TBI Early Childhood Camp. Our madricha or counselor from last summer greeted us, and we sat together with the teens. We discussed life in Israel for a teenager, and participated in a program to explore one another’s beliefs about Israel. It was a great stop, and I know that relationships have already formed. We can’t wait to host these young men and women over the summer.
Heading East to Jerusalem, we noticed dark rain clouds in front of us. Yes we had some needed rain, but through those clouds we saw the most beautiful rainbow. We shared a blessing on the bus as we strained to take a picture. And so the journey continued to Jerusalem.
We arrived in South Jerusalem at the Haas Promenade. From this scenic overlook, the Dome of the Rock shone a bright gold in the setting sun. We took some pictures to capture the moment, shared a cup of wine/ juice, and reciting Shehecheyanu, thanking God for enabling us to reach this sacred moment. This sacred few minutes in the cold and wind were some of the most emotionally moving of our entire trip. Women and men cried with joy for seeing Jerusalem for the first time, understanding just what is so powerful, so moving about this Holy city. As Jews, we frequently tinge our moments of joy with touches of sadness, like the shattering of the glass at the conclusion of a wedding. I know that some were sad that loved ones could not be with us, but all of us were glad to be there together.
So now we are at the Inbal Hotel, ready to have dinner, relax for the night, get set for tomorrow. Friday brings us to the Old City before Shabbat, and promises to be an even more exciting day.
Lailah Tov and Shabbat Shalom!

Day Four: Understanding Israel’s North

An early morning start brought our group to Misgav Am, a kibbutz in the finger of the Galil region as it stretches North. Misgav Am is situated on the top of a mountain, with the border of one side of the kibbutz right alongside the border between Israel and Lebanon. A kibbutz member who has fought in four of Israel’s wars met us at a scenic overlook to explain their location and life on the kibbutz. Showing us the Lebanese city right below the kibbutz where all of the buildings have windows without glass so snipers can shoot from them, he shared his views about how all Israel wants is just to be left alone, the need for a continued show of strength particularly along the Lebanese border, the reason why any attack by Hizbollah should now be considered an act of war by Lebanon herself, and the importance of making a difference with your life by living in and defending the State of Israel. It was a fascinating, and windy, presentation.
From Misgav Am we continued on to a very different part of Israel, Tzfat or Safed. One of the more ancient cities in Israel, Safed is considered the birthplace of Kabbalah or Jewish mysticism. While visiting the Abuhov and Ari Synagogues, we explored the way that Judaism helps us approach the questions we face in life, how mysticism provides one answer to what may seem unanswerable. These two synagogues, one Sephardic and one Ashkenazic, are both stunningly beautiful in their intricate designs steeped in meaning and symbolism. After walking the ancient streets of the Jewish quarter, we took a little break for some shopping and lunch. Many of us tried malawach for the first time, a Yemenite flat bread that was cooked with tomatoes, cheese and spices.
From Safed we entered the Golan Heights, the northern land annexed by Israel from Syria in 1967. This is a very beautiful part of the country, with fields of grazing cattle, farms and agriculture. Our first stop in the Golan was the Ramat HaGolan Winery. This winery is a collective for a variety of farms in the area which produces award winning wines. After visiting the storage room and bottling plant, of course we had to visit the tasting room! We tried three different types of wine before heading to the store to purchase our favorites.
Our final stop for the day was Ben Tal, a former military outpost. Standing at the trenches looking out over Syria, Jeremy taught us the stories of the Golan, the Six Day War in 1967 when it was first capture, and the Yom Kippur War in 1973, when all of Israel was almost lost. Looking out at Syria so close by, we understood just how vital the Golan is to Israel’s security in a way that cannot be explained without experiencing it yourself.
When we came back to our Kibbutz Hotel, we all took different paths to relax, napping, exercising, or walking a promenade alongside the Jordan River. After dinner, we enjoyed a discussion with Dubi, the manager of the hotel and a member of the kibbutz, who shared with us the state of the kibbutz movement in Israel.
We have now reached the half-way point of our journey. As you have read, this is a very, very full trip. We have all begun to take some time to process all that we have seen and experienced. It has been so meaningful and special for us all. As we make our way down to Jerusalem tomorrow, I know that we enter another entirely different and special dimension of our trip.
Balailah Haba’ah Birushalayim--- Tomorrow Night in Jerusalem.

Day Three: Traveling on Independence Day

Feeling a little groggy from our Independence Day celebrations, our group loaded the bus and headed north along the Mediterranean coast. We made our way to Caesarea, an ancient port city. First built by King Herod as a tribute to the Roman Empire, this port city has stood for nearly 2000 years as a Jewish, Roman, Byzantine, Crusader, Muslim, and once again Jewish city. We walked among the many ruins and heard explanations of how the beautiful mosaics were created, of the hippodrome (race track,) theater and other buildings. If you have ever visited Caesarea before but not in the last 10 years or so, you would not believe how much it has changed, with a new visitor’s center, new restaurants and facilities, and more importantly, new excavations. It was a very interesting introduction to the archaeology of Israel, and I know that we will see more of Herod’s construction projects as we continue on our journey.
From Caesarea we turned inland, stopping for lunch in a small town called Alonim. As it is Independence Day, most restaurants are closed. Many, many Israelis have barbeques today, parking their families on open fields, parks and beaches all around the country- the smell of cooking meat fills the air. We turned towards the Sea of Galilee, known in Hebrew as the Kinneret: the name is derived from the Hebrew word for harp, kinor, because it is shaped like a harp. Along the south shore of the Kinneret, we visited a very special cemetery. In the shade of beautiful cedar trees, our impassioned guide Jeremy (who is a big hit with the ladies, by the way) taught us the story of how the political movements aligned to create the idea of social Zionism. Social Zionism was the motivation of hundreds of young Jews to make their way to Israel in the early 20th century, to build the land by the sweat of their brow. These brave chalutzim, or pioneers, led a difficult life, but believed in the greater good of building a modern Jewish state, and many of them are buried here. We also heard the story of Rachel, one of the early settlers, who expressed her love for her new home, and especially her beloved Kinneret through poetry. At her grave, a metal case holds a book of her poems, and as we read her words, we listened to hauntingly beautiful versions of them set to music. I would say this was one of the most meaningful moments of the trip, but it seems EVERY moment of the trip is the most meaningful!
From the Kinneret we continued up the Galil region, passing many of the locations where, according to the New Testament, Jesus preached and performed some of his miracles. We came to Kibbutz Kfar Blum, a small area in the north near Lebanon, where our hotel is located. This is what is known as a “pastoral guest house,” a hotel run by the kibbutz members as a source of income. We took some time to relax and enjoy another wonderful dinner together. Yom Ha’Atzma’ut came to a close with another highlight. Just as we celebrated the 62nd birthday of the State of Israel, we also celebrated the 80th birthday of one of our trip participants, Mildred Cohn. Millie has been a real trooper, making her way along the trip every step of the way with her daughter Randi by her side. I know everyone from TBI joined with us in wishing Millie Yom Huledet Sameach, a Very Happy Birthday!
Another full day ahead of us tomorrow, so once again it is Lailah Tov for now.

Day Two… An Exploration of Zionism

(Catching up on the blogs finally. Here is Monday’s message.)
Yom Hazikaron, Israel’s Memorial Day, our first full day in Israel started with what can only be described as a sumptuous breakfast feast. Fresh cheeses, vegetables, eggs, breads… you can only understand an Israeli breakfast if you’ve had it. We talk all the time in the States now about the idea of eating locally grown food. That concept comes to life here, where everything is grown in the country and nothing is more than 5 hours away. Each meal has surprised everyone with how fresh and delicious it is.
Enough about food. Our day started by visiting Independence Hall in central Tel Aviv. This was the home of Meir Dizengoff, one of the founders of the city, and its first mayor (yes, the mayor named Meir.) We learned the story of the founding of Tel Aviv in 1909, a group of 66 families who built a city on sand dunes. After Dizengoff passed away, he donated his home to the city to be an art museum. When the British Mandate over Palestine was coming to an end in 1948, David Ben-Gurion and 37 leaders of the provincial government called a secret meeting (which everyone knew about) to declare statehood before Shabbat came. We listened to an impassioned guide describe the moment and heard a recording of Ben-Gurion on May 14, 1948, 5 Iyar 5708, proclaiming a “…Jewish state in the Land of Israel, to be known as the State of Israel.”

From there we headed south to the Ayalon Institute, a kibbutz on the outskirts of Rehovot. While we were driving on the highway, we passed what looked like a traffic jam and accidents. We realized, however, that what we saw was the highway being used as a parking lot for a nearby cemetery where a memorial assembly was being held. Yom Hazikaron is a day when every store is closed and everyone visits a cemetery. At 11:00 AM, the air-raid sirens sounded once again. Our bus came to a stop, and like the hundreds of Israelis near us, we got out of the bus to stand on the road for two minutes of silence to remember the soldiers who have given their lives in defense of the country. We continued on to our destination, a fascinating part of Israel’s battle for independence. The Ayalon Institute was a munitions factory, manufacturing 2.5 million bullets for the soldiers. They did this under the noses of the British overseers by hiding the machinery underneath the laundry and bakery. Our guide is a member of a youth movement dedicated to rebuilding the kibbutz ideal and building a Jewish nation with their hands and hard work.

Lunch was an interesting excursion into Rehovot, as we ventured out on our own to find a restaurant. For many, this was the first opportunity to experience a falafel or shwarma.
From there we went to Latrun, a fortress on the road from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. During the War of Independence, Arab villages choked off Jerusalem by shooting at convoys bringing food and medical supplies to the city. To help the Jews in Jerusalem survive, the Israelis built a narrow dirt bypass road on which to deliver the much needed supplies. The road, similar to the highway built in Burma by the British to bring armaments into China to fight the Japanese during WWII, is called the Burma Road. We traveled the Burma Road in Jeeps, enduring some serious bumps and turns. While it may have been uncomfortable for some while we were doing it, everyone expressed how much fun it was when we returned to the bus.
We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before heading out for the next part of the adventure, Yom Ha’Atzmaut, Israel’s Independence Day. These days represent a total juxtaposition, as we move from national mourning to national celebration. After dinner, many of us made our way to Kikar Rabin, where we had been the night before for Yom Hazikaron. Thousands filled the streets and the square singing and dancing, hitting one another with a patish, an inflatable hammer, or spraying each other with shaving cream. Several members of our group starting dancing a hora, and Israeli children joined in with them. It was simply amazing to see how different the mood was, how the entire city was enveloped in a giant party. The music and dancing continued well into the early morning, and many of us could hear it outside our hotel rooms until 2:30-3:00 AM! Now that’s a party.
Tuesday we move up to the North.

Our First Day in Israel

(Due to technical difficulties, this post from April 18 is posted today.)

Shalom Shalom from Tel Aviv! Our group of 43 has finally gathered all together at the Carlton Hotel in Tel Aviv on the shores of the Mediterranean, after what seems like days, ready for our adventure in Israel to begin.

The adventure began the moment we arrived at the airport, and were greeted by our tour guide Jeremy outside of customs. We made our way down to the ancient port city of Jaffa. Jaffa is a place with an incredible past. We started by sampling fresh breads and pastries at the Abulafia Bakery, one of the oldest continually family-owned businesses in the country. After our street-walking feast, we made our way to the top of the Jaffalookout. From the same vantage point, one can see the shores of modern Tel Aviv, (the first Hebrew city built in 200 years in the land of Israel,) St. Peter's Church, and a mosque from whose minarets we could hear the muezzin call the Muslim faithful to prayer. Jaffa is the port from which Jonah souht to escape God, Peter hada vision of God telling him that the laws of kashrut were no longer necessary, and even according to Greek mythology is the place from which Perseus rescued Andromeda. After exploring the confluence of three faiths in one city and learning about the Jewish connections to astrological symbols, we made our way to our hotel to settle in, relax a bit, or perhaps wander the city a bit.

After a welcome dinner at the hotel, our group made its way further into Tel Aviv, walking to Rabin Square, named after Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin, who was assassinated after atttending a peace rally there in 1995. At precisely 8 PM, air raid sirens were sounded throughout the country and everything came to a complete standstill. Even buses stopped and passengers stood in the streets to mark the beginning of Yom Hazikaron, Israel's National Day of Remembrance for Fallen Soldiers. It is an eerie yet beautiful tribute to see the entire nation come to a halt to remember their fallen heroes. In Rabin Square, the Tel Aviv municipality hosted an assembly to remember the 23,000 soldiers who have given their lives to establish and defend Israel. Thousands of people, most under the age of 30, gathered for an evening of song, remembrance and tribute. While it may have been difficult for everyone to understand what was being said, the message of the ceremony was driven home by the tears on the faces of those surrounding us.

This incredible adventure has just begun. While there is so much more to write about the emotions we are all feeling, Steve Schwersky reminded me a short while ago that we have basically been awake for over 34 hours, and it is most definitely time to get some rest for our next big day tomorrow.

Laila Tov ul'hitraot --- Good night and we'll see you soon!

We're on our way!

It is 2:30 PM and we are sitting in the airport waiting for our flight to Tel Aviv. After some anxiousness over our flights because of the mysterious volcanic cloud hovering over Europe and the North Atlantic (thankfully only one couple's flights had to be altered) we are all set for our trip. And, as Bruce pointed out, many of us have been together for several hours already and no one is fighting yet!

It is interesting to hear the expresions of excitement and anticipation from everyone as we wait to board. What will the country be like? How will it feel to visit sites we have studied and heard about all our lives? What does it mean to "go up" or "come home" to our Jewish homeland? There is nothing quite like that first time touching down in Israel. The emotions can be overwhelming. Yet even for those who have visited before, arrival in Israel is exciting because the country has changed so much in the last few years. It is both one of the most ancient places and a modern miracle at the same time.
Even as a "veteran traveler," having spent more than 2 years of my life there, I am excited. I cannot wait to be back in OUR home.

One of the unusual coincidences of the flight we are on is that we will literally fly INTO Havdallah, for the sun will set behind us as we travel East. While we may not be able to light a braided candle midflight, I know we all look forward to marking the distinction of entering this exciting week in our lives.
The next post will come from the shores of the Mediterranean, in the middle of Tel Aviv.
Shavua Tov
Rabbi Treiser